A tale of 3000 Kms, 8 days, 3 states and 2 bikes – Day5

Life is not lived in the past, neither is it lived wandering in future. Life is for today, and it is today. Live it, love it, see it, and show how capable you are of everything you wish to achieve. This is one very motivational quote and true to it, we started the wonderful day at 5:30AM. We were to head to Valparai today to meet up with a group of beloved bikers from Yamaha Riders Club (YRC) and spend the rest of days in their company. But as fate would have it, one of our friend, Saquib who was in the YRC group could not make it and we did not know anyone in their group apart fro Saquib.

We continued on the fantastic Salem-Kanyakumari highway and stopped for the tea ritual. I suggested Lohith on continuing the ride for somemore time than going to Valparai. After lot of thought, he came up with lets go to Rameshwaram? This was what exactly the doctor had ordered for me, and I happily agreed. We took directions from the gentlemen in the tea shop and headed towards Rameshwaram.

This was the view in front of us and we were really enjoying ourselves riding on this beautiful stretch.

Mr. Sun decided to play around with clouds and not show up for a nice sunrise shot. What a spoil sport.

As we moved towards Rameshwaram, the roads again changed to undivided single lane ones which made Lohith get tensed up. Me having ridden in TN, assured him that the roads will be joy to ride on and we carried on.

Stopped for some snaps and some monkeying around.

Thats me.

The surrounding fields.

My new found super bike.

And that's the camera shy Lohith hiding his face.

The roads were fantastic, small cities scattered around, no hint of traffic and we were happily cruising. We stopped for tea at a small road side place and became instant celebrities. The bikes were ogled at, touched, analyzed in detail by the locals. They found the underbelly exhaust in Lohiths Duke interesting. Questions on if the exhaust was cut off? if there is no exhaust? speculations of Duke having an AC! yes AC, the radiator was supposedly AC for them and I was quietly listening, giggling and sipping my tea. Had fun there and thanks to these guys.

We were close to Rameshwaram and a slight traffic started building up. As we neared the famous Pamban bridge, we saw an open sea shore which we did visit.

Couple of fishermen kids showed up, one very shy (as you can see, hiding his face) and the other the exact opposite. We had good fun chatting to these guys, and the one posing with the bike said that his dad has the same bike as mine and he knows how to ride it! He wanted to take my bike for a round! He did a detailed compare between the CBR and Duke and decided that Duke was better and later switched his story to "my dad has a Duke and I know how to ride it".  

We bid good bye to them and headed towards the bridge, promptly to be greeted by a traffic jam. The bridge was under repair and the traffic was one way. While we were irritated at this, we also got the opportunity to meet this wonderful couple who were on a touring spree in their Suzuki Access! And all the people called us mad!

They were into their fourth day of ride and we were very happy to meet them and hear their story. Suggested them to get good riding gears and then we bid adieu to them and took off to cross the chaotic Pamban bridge.

The train showed up exactly on time and I love this train for making this shot complete.

The coastline of Rameshwaram.

Once we reached Rameshwaram, it was chaos. It was hot, we were not finding rooms to stay and we wasted good amount of time trying to find a room to stay. We decided to head to Ramanathapuram and stay there, but luckily we found a room and happily we stuffed all the luggage in the room and headed for lunch.

Next visit was to Dhanuskodi, the town that was decimated in Tsunami and it was around 15Kms from Rameshwaram. We headed on, met a couple of local guys on bikes who wanted a race. Lohith decided to pull over and gave them gyan on riding gears! The best dialogue was  when the guy said that he had a helmet, but he keeps it at home. Lohith snapped back and said why don't you keep it at the temple and do pooja. Lol, they ran away from us, real quick.

We reached Dhanushkodi where we were stopped by police guys who asked for our ID proof. I showed him my PAN card, but he wanted to know where I work and a proof of that! Crazy guy, I handed him my visiting card and had a tough time in explaining that I work for that company and don't own it. As per suggestion of locals, we decided to take our bikes to the end point which usualy is only possible by 4x4 vehicles. The whole place is covered with loose sand and we somehow decided to try our luck.

As fate had it, 50 meters into the path, the bikes wouldn't move an inch forward! More the throttle, the deeper the wheels sunk. Decided to push the bike and covered some ground. Meanwhile, the 4x4's had arrived and were constantly honking for way. How do I give way when I can barely move forward! One driver got irritated, came out, lifted my bikes front section and put it out of the tyre tracks and cursed me to death. Somehow we managed to push our bikes back and decided that we take the 4x4's after parking the bikes. We were drenched in sweat. We were in full riding gear and the heat had baked me from inside and I desperately wanted to find some shade.

Now the biggest hassle was in front of us. Parking! Where ever we had been, the bikes had drawn attention, people touching, sitting on the bikes, fiddling with switches! They say bikes are like wives and you are not supposed to touch others bikes. But this is India, no one cares how the owner cares for the bike, the love towards the machine, all they want is to satisfy their hunger. I still remember how I was in shock when a guy had placed a brick on my previous bikes tank scratching the paint off. This place was no exception either. The moment Lohith parked his bike and walked a few steps, there were posers all over the bike, lined up to take their pictures. High time for us to learn to  respect others property. We scrapped the plan to park and decided to head back.

We headed back and stopped at a temple, built across the sea and the connecting road was right between the sea. Sat there chatting, planning, and me as usual making jokes out of nothing to bug Lohith. We had fun whilst the evening sun was showering his golden rays at us.

After all the fun and jibber jabber, it was time to leave. The day was amazing. Met wonderful people, had fun, tensed about rooms, the feeling when we were stuck knee deep in sand with the bikes. All these make you complete as an individual and this ride thought us a lot. Had a quiet dinner, roamed around and retired for the day.

A tale of 3000 Kms, 8 days, 3 states and 2 bikes – Day4

Today was the last day in Kerala, known as gods own country, and I truly love this state for the unadulterated natural beauty it offers. It may have congested roads, but all this can be forgotten by a mere look at one of its rivers! And today that was what we had in plate too. We had plans of visiting the famous boat house and head out to Kanyakumari.

As usual, we started early and headed straight to the famous boat house station. I stood mesmerized, speechless, thoughtless for a few moments looking at the serene and calm back waters, the majestic house boats gracefully floating away into the distant rising sun. Let the pictures speak and truly the beauty of this place is unmatched.

I was having an odd sense of achievement and somewhere somehow was feeling very emotional at this place. We were reluctant to leave, but the fear of having to ride in the dreaded roads forced us and we had to head out from this beautiful place.

Did I mention about Lohith having not brushed his teeth for last 3 days and finally buying a toothbrush in the morning! Yes, here is the pic of the magic stick that saved me from suffocation for the rest of the ride.

So off we started, back to the NH-47 which had already squeezed the last drops of patience out of us in the previous two days. Traffic was again high, the normal routine of following some slow moving traffic, trying to overtake, falling back and riding at slow pace continued. I was praying for this torture to end, and I knew that roads in Tamilnadu would be better. I wanted to get out of Gods own country as soon as possible.

As we started nearing TN, the roads started getting a little wider and a little traffic free, and finally at 1:30pm, we entered TamilNadu.

The scenic roads allowed us to cruise easily and we were nearing Kanyakumari. I was happy, last visit to Kanyakumari was in my schooling days and I was waiting to see the sunset. As we approached Kanyakumari, I saw a board indicating direction for Kanyakumari as right, so I took the right. Lohith went straight and he was signalling to another signboard which said road to Kanyakumari is straight ahead. I was confused, and being the lazy bum I am, I asked Lohith to come join me and we decided to take the right turn.

Boy, the best award laziness has ever brought me! the roads were 4 laned, super smooth and nothing like we had seen in the last 2 days and there was no one even in sight in the road, let alone traffic. I stopped and slept on the road, hugging it, asking the 4 laned roads to never leave me and become single lane. After monkeying around for a bit,we headed on in lookout for room to stay. Being the holiday season, we had very tough time, and finally found a very good room which was cheaper than all the places we had stayed till now.

Dumped all the luggage, freshened up and after a hearty lunch, we decided to head towards sunset point. As usual, it was very crowded, and I decided that the best place to catch sunset without people was at the seashore below. We had to climb down a steep ledge, and as they say, grass is greener on the other side, the place was stinking of shit. People had happily offloaded their stuff and we had to run away, far far away from there, and I could still hear Lohith cursing under his breath.

It was time, the golden hour had come and we soon were busy clicking pic after pic.

The light house

View from the road of the sea.

A deserted boat, for some variety.

The setting sun.

Now these were real interesting people.  They not only asked the price of my DSLR, they wanted me to take a pic of them which I did.Showed them the pic, they happy, me happy. But wait, they were like give us the print! I was wondering WTF is this now. I said this is a camera and not printer, they were clearly not happy and walked away commenting on the camera being pricey but still cant print a pic.

Guys if you are reading this by any chance, take the print out of your pic



The Tiruvalluvar statue.



The boat strikes again.



Mahatma Gandhi memorial.

We headed out, having fun walking in the sea of people. Clicking pics of interesting things, and this happened. Lohith wanted to snap the pic of a roadside vendor selling sea shells. The lady was pissed off and started foul mouthing him in Tamil. I was having a blast laughing at all the abuse being hurled at him and snapped a photo for memory of this moment.

Satisfied, headed for dinner. We met this family of four, 2 kids and parents who were from Bangalore. Had a small chit chat, and the uncle was surprised that we had come all the way from Bangalore on bikes! Are you guys crazy!? Was the exact reaction from him and when we told him about the trip we had done so far, he stopped talking to us and turned towards his family. I think he was concerned about his son listening to our story and finally end up following us.

Headed back, discussing on what we had done. We both were happy that we had reached southern most tip of India and since past 4 days we had done what we love! We were living our lives and we went to sleep with a wonderful feeling of accomplishment.

Day 5 log is here

A tale of 3000 Kms, 8 days, 3 states and 2 bikes – Day3

Bekal to Alappuzha
We woke up early as planned and we hit the road by 5:30. The roads were very enjoyable at this hour and we were having fun riding in the cool early hours. We stopped for the ritual of morning tea which is a must have for me. A cup of tea is like my elixir of life that awakens all the senses and gives that strength to carry on. Lohith had come to terms of my craving for tea and did not create fuss when I stopped. We met thousands of pilgrims headed to Shabarimala on their divine journey and that too by foot! We had quite a chat on how they manage to walk all the way to Shabarimala on bare foot when we are not able to take the burning sun in a motorcycle. Quite an insight into will power and what it can do to a human we got at 5:30AM at a desolated dark tea shop far away from where we belong!

We reached Thalasseri by 8 and we had plans of going to the drive in beach. We had overshot the diversion by a good 5Kms when we stopped to enquire for directions. We rode back and boy, the narrow winding road that takes you to the beach through coconut plantations was waiting to welcome us. It was a bliss to tide towards the beach and finally when we reached there, the beauty of the beach was so overwhelming, that we had to be stopped and called back by the toll collector! We were rushing towards the back and he had to literally drag us back to his office or shack or what ever it was.
Beautiful white sand and amazingly clean blue sparkling water was a feast to the eyes. This is the largest drive in beach in Asia and true to its name, the ride in the waves was an experience which I will never forget.




Fishermen at work.



A video of ride in the beach. I was scared initially, but later on I ventured deeper into the water.

After having fun in the beach, we headed on and stopped for breakfast at Thalasseri, and continued on our journey. The temperature was rising and the traffic was increasing too. As per Google maps, the road we were riding on was a NH, but to our surprise or due to lack of riding knowledge, the roads were too narrow for even a State highway. There were cities strewn all across and there were no bypass roads to avoid the cities or major junctions. This coupled with all the holiday goers, the traffic was maddening and we were wondering if Bangalore traffic was lower compared to this.

The menacing and reckless nature of Kerala drivers is well known. Bus drivers who dare to overtake while going head on  onto the oncoming traffic, car goers who own the roads and act as if giving way to a bike is an insult to their priceless ride, autowalas who have no interest in driving on the side and the motorcyclists who try to sneak through, infinite number of signals that show up, mentally abnormal pedestrians who give a damn about looking sideways before crossing. This was driving us crazy, and the insane heat was the final nail in the coffin. We did not want to ride in this and the breaks were getting frequent. Gods own country has the worst roads and the road sense in these parts as per me is zero. Slowly we were making progress and we were not sure at this pace we were going to reach Alappuzha. Lohith wanted a break in the noon. Stopped by shade and this is how I was.



Exhausted from all the chaos, I took shelter on a compound and the 15 min power nap got some energy back in me. We decided to take it slow and stop at Kochi if the progress was this slow and carried on. I don’t want to crib on how the ride was, you need to experience it to know the pain and somehow we reached Kochi by 6:30PM. We stopped for tea and a quick discussion on what next. We decided to continue as Alappuzha was 60kms from here and worst case we could make it by 8PM. Little did we know on what we had in store for us, roads started filling up and we had to stop at 100s of signals in Kochi. The metro construction work was in full swing and this was causing traffic pile up. Another huge pileup before Alappuzha made sure that we reached only by 9PM and we had to find shelter good 7Kms out side the city.
There was a procession from the local temple festival and the ladies clad in classic Kerala attire with all the lamps completed with the drum beats was a feast to the eye. Even when we were exhausted and desperately looking for a place to crash, we stopped for a couple of clicks.


Lohith decided that we cant carry on till Alappuzha with the blocked traffic. We went straight into the first lodge we saw, and luckily we got a very comfortable room for 1000Rs. Right next to it was a 3* restaurant which was the need of the hour. Freshened up and headed to fill up our hungry tummies. No idea on what time I slept as the last thing I remember is opening the room door and crashing on the bed.

It was a tiring day and we covered 440 kms after riding for  full 10 hours, all thanks to the traffic. Next day we had to reach Kanyakumari and I was comforting Lohith that the TN roads will be great and hoping for Kerala to end soon.

Day 4 log is here

A tale of 3000 Kms, 8 days, 3 states and 2 bikes – Day2

Gokarna to Bekal:

“Every day is a new day, and you'll never be able to find happiness if you don't move on”
New day, out of Bangalore, fresh air, cool sea breeze, I was cuddling in the blanket and at around 5 I saw Lohith wake up and get ready. We had plans to visit the beach before we head out on our wonderful journey, but I was wondering why is he up so early! I know it will be pitch dark till 6:15 at least. I wanted to tell him, and I thought I told him.You know sometimes when your body just wants to sleep, it creates those feelings of waking up and doing some stuff that you have in mind, later you wake up to find it was all games played by mind!! This was one of them. I woke up late, got ready by 6:30 to see a disappointed Lohith sitting in the balcony looking outside, cursing himself for loosing sleep.

Now we start walking, walking to watch the sun rise and bestow all the beautiful golden orange colours that he has on the serene nature before transforming into a burning red hot avatar. The walk to the beach was beautiful and I will let the pictures do the talking.
This is what we saw once we stepped out of the room. It was late when we reached in the night so we couldn’t see on how beautifully the farm house has been maintained.


Now this is where I might have found Lohith, with may be couple of broken teeth had he tried to wade into the beach in the pitch dark.


The beautiful path which leads to another marvel of nature, filled up with cashew nut trees filled with flowers. I so want to be in my home town in summers, this place gave me all the memories of how school and college summers were spent, eating cashew fruit, mango, sleeping off in the trees, roam in the wild collecting peacock feathers. It feels like something that heart wishes to do, but the responsibilities force you to be otherwise.



Now once we crossed this path chatting, making fun of each other, and me asking some silly questions which apparently were bugging him, we see this.





Now, we forgot that we were together. I was filled with joy and happiness, I waded off somewhere and Lohith in the opposite direction, may be ( I don’t know). Clicking pics, soaking in the golden rays of sun, smirking at one nice lady who climbed a rock to start her meditation. Who wants meditation when you are in such a place! Found a Kingfisher sitting on a rock, and I wanted a pic of it. The moment I frame the shot, the bird flew off to another place. Now this continued for at least 15 minutes before I could finally manage one pic of the bird.



Few more snaps from the beach,











































Now it was time to leave, we had been on the beach for good 1 and half hours and we had to head on to our next destination. Now I have a problem, I cant start my day without tea. A desperate search resulted in no tea available and we did not want to wait. Headed back and packed our luggage, handed out the keys and went to our bikes to see this!!

Each and every part was red due to the Yana road we had taken, and Gokarna roads were not helping the cause either. Now we had to fill up fuel and hit the ATM for that much needed cash.After waiting for a long time, while Lohith struggled with his tank bag, we moved on only to be amazed by the road we had taken this time. Riding on the mountain, sea on my left, roads that were twisty like a serpents tail, this needed a photo stop. Now photo stops are difficult, remove the helmet, balaclava, gloves, take out the camera and do things in reverse order, but who cares! I am out here to enjoy, take home the memories to cherish (show it my kids someday may be).












































Headed on, it was a small lane, forcefully going through a sea of houses that had their doors right on the edge of the road. This was an awesome feeling twisting and turning, ever so carefully (not to hit any one and get beaten up by crowd) we got out of the lane to see the Gokarna temple. Now on the journey started, another stop at fuel station meant loosing at least 15 mins of time in tying Lohith’s tank bag. Temperature was rising and last thing you want is to become a toast by the end of the day. We stopped for that much needed breakfast soon. Eating to hearts content, we were discussing the plans. I assured Lohith that the roads will be good and we can make up for the lost time.

Headed out into the smooth tarmac, enjoying every minute, Lohith was riding like there was no tomorrow for some reason (May be he wanted to make up for the lost time). We hit the ghat section only to find trucks and cars piled up. It was difficult to stay together in traffic and Lohith overtook a truck and we split up. I like curves, and I started overtaking, carefully and swiftly, I overtook most of the traffic and in the process, left Lohith behind. Now I overtook an Ertiga, and the driver was not amused (How can a bike over take a SUV!). Best part was, driver and the co passengers peeping out of the windows to see what on earth is that . I stopped for Lohith and saw Snehith’s missed call. He was in Udupi and we made plans to meet up for lunch. Finally after waiting for 20 mins, Lohith turned up. Cursing me for leaving him behind, and telling me stories of how a lady ended up hearing Udupi as Monkey.

It was time to hit the road again, and the mercury level was at its peak. Crosswinds were high and it was getting difficult to overtake trucks without being pushed out to the other side of the road by the winds (I almost ended up under a bus due to this). There on I started calculated overtakes.




West coast is blessed with very serene beach lines.For explorers, Bhatkal has many beaches and a light house that is not crowded or hogged by tourists.

We moved on, crossed Bhatkal and after a point we started hitting diversions. Man, 4 lane conversion of the NH was in full swing and the roads had more diversions than the holes in a dosa. Now on it was torture for us. Find a good piece of tarmac, twist the throttle, and wham there's the diversion. Finally managed to reach Udupi and called up Sneh bhai, decided to have food at Sharada and we headed there. It was nice to find shade finally and we waited for Sneh for a good 15 mins. He showed up in his car. Showed all the luggage in his cars boot and entered the hotel. Lohith was in hurry to leave, I frankly had no intentions of leaving (I liked being in the cool AC room) and yeah, I got my favourite curd rice for food. Hotel felt like heaven and the hot roads like hell. Had fun chatting catching up on stuff, and then it was time to leave. Thankfully, Sneh thought how to tie the tank bag to Lohith and we hit the road again.

We were in dilemma when we were leaving. Sneh said the roads are not going to improve till Mangalore, we were not sure if we could reach Bekal as planned or would have to stop in Kasargod. We decided that we will see to it in Kasargod and rode on.

The roads as they were, were tiring and the hot and humid weather was not making it any better for us.
The traffic was crazy once we hit the Mangalore-Kasargod road. There was no common sense among drivers, and mainly the frustration of diversions were coming out in the form of road rage. I was almost hit by an unruly driver in Innova who was driving like mad. Lohith saw this too and he surprisingly said lets stop him!! Never expected that from Lohith. Tailgated the Innova for good amount of time which apparently got him scared and he did a mad dash and got out of sight.

The torture of diversions continued till we reached Bekal and it was 8 by the time we reached there. The roads had gone from ridable to unbearable after we had reached Kasargod. It was getting dark and the dust coupled with high beam wielding oncoming traffic was making the progress slow.

On the way we had stopped for tea, Lohith after ordering tea came out and we were chatting. One guy with whom I had enquired about directions started talking to me and I don’t know what prompted Lohith to reply in broken Tamil I think he thought he was being spoken to and when I replied in fluent Malayalam, Lohith was shocked. (I had not told him I lived in Kerala for 3 years during my schooling).


Reached Bekal, it was very dark and we were tired and very exhausted. Looked for a room, found a very spacious one for 1500 bucks after lot of haggling for price. Could not visit the fort as it was too late. Roamed around for food, ate to hearts content and crashed. We decided to leave early next day as the heat was becoming unbearable and tiring. We had plans to leave early cover good grounds before sun comes out all guns blazing so that we could make some ground without getting fried while praying that the roads get better.

Day 3 log is here